As soon as you leave Alice Springs and head out into the West MacDonnell ranges, you know you are in Namatjira country.
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Most Australians will find the ghost gums, red ranges and spinifex plains immediately familiar from the paintings of Albert Namatjira, whose home of Hermannsburg, is just a stone’s throw away, at least in Northern Territory terms.
I had signed up for Trek Larapinta’s three day guided walk, though I was soon to discover that the ‘West Macs’, as they are affectionately known, cater to everyone from the day tripper to the serious hiker.
I was more about stopping and smelling the flannel flowers than putting myself through a test of physical endurance. But on the plane over it became clear that hordes of people were heading in the same direction as me; to walk, run, cycle and ride the famous Larapinta Trail.
I was grateful for my small group, (Trek Larapinta caps numbers at eight), and once we were whisked away to our private semi-permanent camp in a sandy riverbed, it felt like we had the desert all to ourselves.
On the way to our first day’s walk at Ormiston Gorge, we visited Simpsons Gap, where the sun hadn’t yet made its way over the red cliffs. Our guide, Rob Shaw, pointed out the flock of Zebra finches, which for thousands of years had signalled to Aboriginal people the presence of water.
On our nine-kilometre walk to Ormiston Pound we had our first taste of the rocky terrain the Larapinta is famous for. Our guide’s knowledge of the ancient geology of the area was impressive, but my true respect was earned as he patiently taped up the already blistering feet of my fellow walkers.
We finished the day with a plunge into a freezing waterhole, which had the same effect as applying ice to tired muscles.
Back at camp, our second guide Zoe, barbecued local barramundi for us, which we ate around the campfire as temperatures dropped. I had bravely made up my swag in the creek bed in daylight before someone mentioned dingos, but once ensconced in the -5 degree sleeping bag all fears were banished by the vista of the night sky.
The Southern Cross was huge and close, the Milky Way spilled overhead. The canvas changed throughout the night as the constellations travelled across the sky. I lost count of the number of shooting stars - I was possibly seeing glimpses of the Perseid meteor shower which is visible during August.
Our second day of walking was a steep hike up onto Counts Point, a pinnacle of the Heavitree Range with incredible views in all directions.
The weather was unusually hot which made the walk hard going. I dutifully drank my three litres of water, but forgot about reapplying sunscreen to winter-white legs.
However, our efforts were rewarded with endless views in all directions, another freezing swim, this time in the Finke River, and a beer at the nearby Glen Helen resort.
After another campfire dinner, we were given the sobering news that we would be woken at 2am for an eight-kilometre pre-dawn slog up Mount Sonder guided by headlamps. But like a photograph slowly developing in the solution, during the night my legs revealed the true extent of the day’s sunburn and I decided to pass on the walk.
In the late morning, the more hardy souls among our group returned to camp for brunch with tales of the steep climb and the freezing, gale force winds at the top and I began to think my sunburn had been a blessing.
But, they say, the views were worth it, and the Mt Sonder dawn hike is considered to be one of the highlights of the Larapinta Trail.
On our way back to Alice we detoured for a walk between the stunning red walls of the famous Standley Chasm.
Trek Larapinta conducts walking tours from the three day trek to the 16-day, end-to-end walk, as well as more rugged 4WD -supported hiking tours for fit and experienced hikers.
Trek Larapinta’s Rob Shaw said it was important to do some research.
“People should really shop around and quiz the various operators to see what they are offering,” he said.
“Our main guests are baby boomers, but we’re starting to see more Gen-Xers who seek adventure and authentic experiences.
“The overwhelming feedback we get is that people like the smaller group and the sense of having everything you need to feel comfortable yet still be out in the wild.
“We are also as low impact as we can be - that’s very important to us. Everything gets packed up and taken away, and returned back to nature. We are passionate about this aspect of what we do.”
The tours run from April to September to take advantage of the cool winter months.
The Larapinta Trail is also well set up for experienced, independent walkers who probably make up more than half of the people out on the track.
Once you’re out there, spending a couple of days in Alice Springs is worthwhile. I visited the excellent Desert Park, and the Araluen Cultural Centre, where among the collection of indigenous art work hung eight of those familiar Namatjira watercolours, depicting many of the places where I’d walked.
Central Australia, with its unique beauty, is accessible for everyone, and definitely worth experiencing as a window into the ancient, storied heart of our country. For me, the stars alone made it all worthwhile.
IF YOU GO
Places in the MacDonnell Ranges for day visits and short walks.
- Simpsons Gap
- Ormiston Gorge
- Standley Chasm
- Ellery Creek Big Hole
- Glen Helen Gorge
- Trephina Gorge Nature Park in the East MacDonnell ranges
- Mt Sonder Lookout (for those not fancying the eight kilometre climb before daylight)